Ponduru Khadi receives GI Tag

The Geographical Indications Registry has officially granted the Geographical Indication (GI) tag to Ponduru Khadi, the iconic hand-woven fabric from Andhra Pradesh. The registration was awarded in favor of the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), providing much-needed legal protection to this centuries-old craft.

Known locally as Patnulu, Ponduru Khadi is produced exclusively in the Ponduru village of Srikakulam district. This recognition comes nearly 100 years after Mahatma Gandhi famously lauded the fabric for its exceptional fineness and craftsmanship, often citing it as a premier example of the Swadeshi movement.

The “Fish-Bone” Secret

What sets Ponduru Khadi apart from any other textile in the world is its unique manual processing technique. Artisans use the jawbone of the Valuga fish to clean and comb the cotton. This specific biological tool is instrumental in removing impurities while maintaining the integrity of the fibers, resulting in a fabric that is remarkably soft and durable.

Technical Fineness and Local Roots

The fabric’s superior quality is attributed to several key factors:

• Indigenous Cotton: The weavers use locally grown Hill cotton, Punasa cotton, and Red cotton, known for their short-staple strength.
• High Yarn Count: Ponduru Khadi boasts an exceptionally high yarn count of 100–120, a testament to the skill of the spinners who use traditional single-spindle charkhas.
• Manual Precision: Every step—from cleaning and spinning to weaving—is performed by hand, preserving artisanal skills that have been passed down through generations.

Economic Impact and Protection

KVIC Chairman Manoj Kumar stated that the GI recognition is a “matter of pride” that will safeguard the authenticity of the fabric against counterfeit products. By ensuring that only genuine products from the Srikakulam region can carry the “Ponduru Khadi” name, the tag is expected to:

1. Boost Artisan Income: Command premium pricing in national and international markets.
2. Ensure Fair Value: Protect weavers from the influx of power-loom imitations.
3. Global Recognition: Elevate the fabric as a symbol of sustainable, “Vocal for Local” fashion on the world stage.